With the crowds like they are on the North Shore of Oahu, a lot of times when you get a good wave it is at the very last second. Some one misses a gimme, falls up the line, or the guy in position passes—and with no time to think or prepare, you spin and go. Often, that late drop is the ticket to paradise. Other times, the lack of time to sus out the wave puts you in a bad place at a bad time.
It is always god to get a good wave right at sunset to come in on.
Not sure who the guy is. But this was taken at the Backdoor shootout. If you look closely, you can see the nose just snagging enough water to launch this poor bastard into a world of hurt.
Backdoor Pipeline is pretty lousy shallow too. If you can take the beating form a fall, you can look forward to an elongated series of beatings on the way back out. Enjoy.
Just you and your closest friends sharing some alone time.
He comes from my old stomping grounds of Ocean City, MD and he loves to skate — a few things that sound good in my book. Plus he’s a goofy. We hooked up a long time ago and got some shots. Because of my schedule, we only had two quick shoots. Neither the weather nor the waves cooperated, even though we were on the North Shore of Oahu in December. But thanks mostly to Vince’s skills, we got some sick stuff. Enjoy.
Barca is gnarley. Trying to stay on at Pipe despite the writing on the wall. Hero!
Good old Kamua. He loves a surf. A life-long frother. He has skills too. But as Skeets says, “Sometimes you get the bear, sometimes the bear gets you.” In this case, Kamua Swain is getting gotten by the bear, or more specifically, a solid eight foot wall of sand. Check out the horrible lumps, bumps and ripples. As Freeman says, “We got a word for that. Lousy.”
There is a lot of disagreemant on the validity of aerial surfing. How you can say this is bad? Kid is busting.
The closeout at a beach break has become the area to experiment and express yourself. The crazy thing is that people land this now. Alley-oop rotation by Skiz.
The last sunset of the day. Always beautiful to see.
