Creative Guy Spotlight on Xon Zane
Zon shapes a good surfboard and has some great ideas about surfing and what to do on a wave. If you are in the Mid-Atlantic and need a good custom surf racing board, give Xon a ring. Or if you want to see if the left towards the jetty can be fun, head down there and watch the XYZ show.
Lighten up Francis.
Most people start surfing because they are near the ocean and it is fun to play in the ocean. As we grow older and experience shows us all of the cool things we can do and learn from the ocean, the availability of having fun in the ocean grows. You can bodysurf the shore break. You can longboard small perfect waves. You can tow into big bombs. You can drop in on your friends. You can heckle beginners. You can ride switch stance into closeouts. You can take all your gear and travel to strange places to surf really fun waves with new friends.
At some point you encounter people who’s main goal is to be the best. At great cost to your fun. They take themselves and their surfing very seriously. A lot of the girls you will run into in the surf have that attitude. A lot of Brazilians too. And those people make me want to drop in on them everytime and pull my trunks down and moon them, everytime. Until they lighten up.
Next time there is really good surf, and the crowds are heavy and the vibe is full-on serious, go rent a beater and drop in on everyone and pull into tubes and laugh like you are mental. See who gets pissed off and who laughs with you. Good money says the person who laughs with you would be a better friend.
Big Thanks to Unscene Productions for the video. Wish we could have been there to skate, surf, eat crabs and popcorn!
Summer means going left for me.
And during a discussion with a friend, we joked about me not wanting to go on a surf trip unless I was going to go left. I am a goofy foot and I like lefts. But I realized that winter is the opposite, all rights, and sometimes you just gotta go backside. So here are a couple rights to get us all psyched for winter, who can’t come soon enough.