With the crowds like they are on the North Shore of Oahu, a lot of times when you get a good wave it is at the very last second. Some one misses a gimme, falls up the line, or the guy in position passes—and with no time to think or prepare, you spin and go. Often, that late drop is the ticket to paradise. Other times, the lack of time to sus out the wave puts you in a bad place at a bad time.
Not sure who the guy is. But this was taken at the Backdoor shootout. If you look closely, you can see the nose just snagging enough water to launch this poor bastard into a world of hurt.
Backdoor Pipeline is pretty lousy shallow too. If you can take the beating form a fall, you can look forward to an elongated series of beatings on the way back out. Enjoy.
Got endless supply of the Wee Lad taking lickings. He’s a good sport and makes more than he misses. But these frozen moments are entertainment unto themselves.
He comes from my old stomping grounds of Ocean City, MD and he loves to skate — a few things that sound good in my book. Plus he’s a goofy. We hooked up a long time ago and got some shots. Because of my schedule, we only had two quick shoots. Neither the weather nor the waves cooperated, even though we were on the North Shore of Oahu in December. But thanks mostly to Vince’s skills, we got some sick stuff. Enjoy.
Barca is gnarley. Trying to stay on at Pipe despite the writing on the wall. Hero!
Good old Kamua. He loves a surf. A life-long frother. He has skills too. But as Skeets says, “Sometimes you get the bear, sometimes the bear gets you.” In this case, Kamua Swain is getting gotten by the bear, or more specifically, a solid eight foot wall of sand. Check out the horrible lumps, bumps and ripples. As Freeman says, “We got a word for that. Lousy.”
The 48th Street Zone. Sunset, November 2004.
Don’t worry, this generatino of Gloyd is much more tolerable. Case in point, Liam. Already surfing better than Dad. Not hard, we know, but he has only been surfing for a coupla. Good on ya Liam.
It wasn't too long ago when this was a good wave for Liam. Still is a ripper for Dad however!
Fast forward a couple years and the Young Gloyd is blowing up.
Zon shapes a good surfboard and has some great ideas about surfing and what to do on a wave. If you are in the Mid-Atlantic and need a good custom surf racing board, give Xon a ring. Or if you want to see if the left towards the jetty can be fun, head down there and watch the XYZ show.
Making the most of anything is one of Xon's best surfing talents. He seems to be doing way more fun stuff than most people. Backside Rotator at Ocean City Inlet.
Make it or not, still images of Xon's surfing turn into concrete evidence that Xon is trying some new stuff.
Foam mower, artist, surfer, dad. Zon at work in the creative creatio room, creating some creative new creations.
With my next big adventure only 1 week away, my mind is already in short-timers mode. I want to surf but work is too busy. Work is so busy all I want to do is relax. When I first saw this image it really clicked with me and what I want out of life right now. Simple things can become so desirable, such as being in the ocean, see nature’s beauty and being surrounded by nature’s energy. God it sounds so nice right now. But for now I focus on work and having a job when I return. I will look at this and dream for now.
A really beautiful left peels off with only a few birds for foreground dynamics. Thanks for the inspiration Sam. Photo by Sam Florich.
